Study on Fragrance Contact Allergens in Cosmetic Products
Introduction
A recent study explores the frequency with which consumers encounter fragrance contact allergens in cosmetic products and the adequacy of labeling for these allergens. Fragrance chemicals are significant contributors to contact allergies among European adults, with 120 types capable of inducing skin sensitization.
Regulatory Requirements for Labeling
Out of these chemicals, 26 fragrance allergens must be labeled if their concentration reaches or exceeds 10 parts per million in leave-on products and 100 parts per million in wash-off products or residential detergents. Most of these allergens cause mild skin sensitization, although Evernia prunastri and Evernia furfuracea, both types of oakmoss lichen, are more potent. Notably, concurrent exposure to multiple fragrances can heighten the risk of sensitization.
Challenges of Current Labeling Practices
Cosmetic product labeling adheres to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system. However, many consumers find it challenging to understand this labeling fully, which hampers their ability to make informed purchasing decisions. This prompted Bennike and colleagues to examine the labeling practices of various cosmetic products, aiming to determine the prevalence of fragrance contact allergens.
Research Methodology
The study’s findings were published in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. The Danish Consumer Council THINK Chemicals evaluated a variety of cosmetic products using their application ‘Kemiluppen.’ This free application allowed consumers to scan product barcodes to retrieve ingredient information. If a product was not previously assessed, users could submit a photo, name, and ingredient list for verification by the manufacturer, after which the product was added to the database.
Study Findings
The study period extended from December 2015 to October 2016, during which 2,275,279 product scans were conducted by 157,154 application users. Researchers identified 5,588 unique products that listed ‘fragrance, parfum, or aroma’ and/or at least one of the 26 fragrance chemicals. Among these products, an overwhelming 85.5% contained two or more fragrance chemicals, while 73.9% had three or more. Linalool and limonene were the most frequently labeled chemicals, appearing in 49.5% and 48.5% of products respectively.
Labeling Gaps
Less than 1% of the products contained labels for Evernia furfuracea extract, Evernia prunastri extract, methyl 2-octynoate, anise alcohol, or benzyl cinnamate, while amyl cinnamyl alcohol was not labeled at all. When categorized by product type, perfumes averaged 6.8 fragrance chemicals, deodorants had an average of 5.4, and dental products contained only 0.9. Alarmingly, 34.4% of products did not label any of the 26 chemicals but did include ‘parfum, fragrance, or aroma.’ Conversely, 5.9% of products were labeled with one of the 26 fragrances but did not state ‘parfum, fragrance, or aroma.’
Conclusion
Overall, the 5,588 fragranced products analyzed through the Kemiluppen application indicate that consumers are frequently exposed to fragrance contact allergens, yet the allergens associated with the highest risk for sensitization are seldom labeled. Improved labeling that includes allergen concentrations would significantly aid both physicians and consumers in identifying contact allergies and minimizing exposure to these allergens.
Reference
Bennike, N. H., Oturai, N. B., Müller, S., Kirkeby, C. S., Jørgensen, C., Christensen, A. B., Zachariae, C., & Duus Johansen, J. (2017). Fragrance contact allergens in 5,588 cosmetic products identified through a novel smartphone application. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, doi:10.1111/jdv.14513.